The heritage boom has led several brands down a difficult path. Do they reproduce things they made previously or remake them with the modern customer in mind? Companies who chose the latter have fared better. Most consumers like the idea of heritage (hard wearing, durable clothing) over the reality (hard wearing, ill fitting clothing). One of the best companies at understanding this subtle difference is Gitman Vintage.

Based in Ashland, Pennsylvania since 1948, Gitman Brothers was originally named the Ashland Shirt Corporation. It wasn’t until 1978, when Max Gitman’s sons took over, that it became Gitman Brothers. This is also the reason why you’ll see mags and blogs refer to Gitman as having started in the 70’s, despite having actually been originated in the 40’s.

The companies had been making shirts for designers quietly for a number of years, but their popularity underwent a massive spike when word slipped out that Thom Browne made his shirts there. Their entire operation is still made in the US - no mean feat at a time when even APC’s Jean Touitou denounced US manufacture as ‘only theoretical’. Aside from their manufacturing methods, what makes Gitman vintage stand out is their focus on updating, rather than replicating, their heritage.

Gitman Vintage is headed by Chris Olberding, their one man machine who’s solely responsible for all aspects of the spin off brand. Each season Olberding chooses an archive year and chooses a set amount of fabrics from that particular year. For example, spring/summer 2010 uses fabrics from 1984. The cuts are changed for a contemporary feel, which means that the body is slimmed and the armholes raised to keep in line with today’s trimmed fit.

Evoking the feel of the old has been Gitman Vintage’s greatest success and, unsurprisingly, it’s what Olberding loves most about his role. “[I like] seeing how the old fits in with the new. After all, what is the new but the good forgotten old.”