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How to wear them

How to wear them

Huntsman tweed suit: Part 1

August 30, 2010 | Simon Crompton

This marks the beginning of a new series of posts tracking the making of a Huntsman tweed shooting suit. A three-piece with plus-twos in one of this year’s house tweeds (above, right, and second from the left on the sleeves).

The tweed is a revival of one first made in 1968. Every two years Huntsman commissions a range of new tweeds from the 450-year-old Islay Woolen Mill in the Inner Hebrides, which resurrect an old design from the firm’s archives. (It has been using that mill for the past 12 years, ever since it was recommended by a client from San Francisco who stumbled across it while in Scotland.)

The pattern for the collection is taken from the old design, as are the colours for one tweed, while the background colours for the rest are standard browns, lovat, biscuit etc. The precise colour combinations are chosen by Hunstman staff (and occasionally clients) when they receive a large blanket from the mill covering 50-odd swatches (this series will feature a post on the new blanket when it arrives later in the year).

The mill receives guidance from general manager Peter Smith and his team. In the current collection, for example, Peter suggested a lot of lilac in the green tweed you can see on the model above. Despite that, and the rather unusual shade of blue, this tweed was one of the first to sell out. Then again, to retain their uniqueness only 60 metres of the tweeds are ordered each time – since some customers order a shooting suit with both plus-twos and trousers, that 60 metres doesn’t go very far.

To publicise the tweeds this year, Huntsman made up the lovely patched jacket you can see below, featuring tweeds from the 1960s to the present. Although it was only a showpiece for the window, they ended up selling four of the jackets – though some customers requested a little less pink here, a bit more blue there. It takes the idea of commissioning cloth to a whole new level.


The 2011/12 tweeds will revive the pattern from 1977 - the yellow with large twill you can see on the far right, centre, on the jacket above. Above that is a brown tweed with red check from 2001, to its left is a pink from 2004, going left still is a sparse check from 2008 and next to that is the 1968/2010 check with horizontal brown stripe I am having made.

There is also an 1980s check there, the orange and cream on the far left, centre. And below that is a grey check from 1999. It’s interesting to see how patterns and colours change over time, from the simple to the variegated, and which ones are considered suitable for the present day. Fashions come full circle.

I’m pleased with my tweed – I think the browns and blues will make it easy to wear casually with jeans or cords. And the brown background is slightly more modern than the greens or biscuit.

Next: Design and measuring

Photography: Andy Barnham

Lovely nubuck at Bill Amberg

August 17, 2010 | Simon Crompton

The addiction to lovely leathers continues. Consistent readers will have seen previous posts on the construction details at Bown, Alfred Dunhill’s north-London workshop and the oak-tanned bags at Bill Amberg. Other non-bag favourites include a thick winter jacket from Loro Piana and a recent acquisition in the sales - a deep-purple summer jacket from Bottega Veneta (70% off at Harrod’s!). There’s just no way to resist the big panels of soft leather you get on bags and jackets.

But while I’ve also been a fan of suede for some time (brown unlined jacket from Kilgour, bought in the post-Brandelli sales), nubuck was a recent discovery. I have the Lodger tennis shoes in nubuck, but nothing above the ankles. Nubuck is similar to suede, both in feel and process, as the cow skin is sanded down to achieve the soft surface. But nubuck is made by sanding the external, skin side of the leather, while suede is the flesh side. The result is that nubuck is finer and tougher - as the skin or grain side has a tighter fibre structure.

On a bag like the Metropolitan Magazine model from Bill Amberg, pictured above, this means that the surface has a velvety feel but is much more practical to use in a day bag. I acquired it recently in the sales (50% off at £155, still one or two left I think) and it was a departure from the norm, none of my other bags including black leather. It will hopefully prove useful in accessorising outfits where there is black leather elsewhere.

The lining is blue canvas and it features an external zip pocket as well as the main compartment. The top band and strap are bridle leather, as much of Bill’s stuff tends to be. There’s other great stuff in the Bill Amberg sale still, including the canvas summer bags at some very cheap prices. Apologies that I keep writing about things acquired at the tail end of the sales though. It does create rather a rush.

Learning how to shave at Murdock’s

June 7, 2010 | Simon Crompton

I’ve always been pretty terrible with grooming. Never wanted to spend any time on it, certainly didn’t want to spend any money on it. But in the same way that I have gradually accepted I need to be better at looking after my clothes, I realise now I need to be better at grooming.

Shaving is the biggie. Though I wear a beard, I shave a portion of my cheeks and a good couple of inches of my neck every other day. Although it wasn’t uncomfortable, shaving always seemed to produce redness and little lumps on the skin. It would calm down after a few hours and wasn’t that noticeable, but it wasn’t exactly chic either. I’m not about to start cleansing, but I recognise that I should look neat.

In order to try and learn something, I arranged an appointment with Murdock’s. It always looked like a very pleasant place to be – proper old reclining chairs, steaming towels and an army of unguents – but I had never been in. Probably due to the urge not to spend money, as mentioned.

Alex Glover, my barber, was very tolerant: I asked a lot of questions. (Not necessarily a sensible thing to do when someone is shaving you with a cutthroat razor.) It turns out that most of my preoccupations about shaving well, probably gleaned from skimming but never actually reading GQ articles on the subject, were all wrong.

I assumed the redness on my neck was because my skin was too cold, creating goose bumps that were being cut by the razor. Sometimes I would put a hot flannel on my neck to try and warm it up. Then I’d feel guilty when I was in a rush and couldn’t be bothered. No need to worry, according to Alex. As I usually shave after a shower, the skin should be warm enough.

I assumed that I should only use a blade two or three times before changing it. And again I felt guilty when, through cheapness, I didn’t. Wrong again. Alex says modern razors should be good for a few weeks, certainly with my usage. “The industry is set up to encourage you to change it all the time. Think through the marketing.”

So what should I do? Well, my hair swirls a little at the neck and has a few ingrown hairs. Both make it hard to shave cleanly. But the job is made harder by using modern, multi-blade razors. These press the skin down and, though they shave close, can cut the follicle or even press hairs into the skin. If your hair is arranged nice and neatly, it’s not a problem. If you have my swirly pattern, it will create more ingrowing and more inflammation. Use a plain two-blade razor instead.

The other thing that can damage the follicles is shaving against the grain. Although doing this does get a smoother finish, it’s hard to do consistently if your hair isn’t perfectly aligned. At the most, pick and choose wear you go against the grain. Your neck is likely to be the hardest part and therefore least suited to it.

Clean your shaving soap off with cold water rather than hot, so the pores close up again before you moisturise (I knew that one). Avoid using hard soap in an area with hard water as it’s hard to get a decent lather (that one I didn’t); use cream instead. The badger brush should be made use of to work into the skin and lift any recalcitrant ingrowers away from the skin.

Finally, if your neck is inflamed, try a moisturiser or repair product that contains some Salicylic Acid. Alex recommended Clubman’s Bump Repair Gel.

I don’t know which of those tips made the difference, but my neck is looking a lot better this week. Thank you Alex and thank you Brendan.

Photography: Andy Barnham

The making of desert boots

May 12, 2010 | Nicholas Pettifer

desertboot-navy-011

I’ve never owned a pair of desert boots. This is principally because I used to perceive them as trainer replacements for men in their thirties. You know, for when you just want to be comfortable, but it is harder to ignore a nagging wife than a casual girlfriend.

Don’t get me wrong, I think they are a stylish, classic design. And I am rapidly approaching the territory described above. For a long time I have been debating which colour to go for when I finally buy a pair.

The origins of desert boots can be traced back to 1949 when Nathan Clark created the Clarks Original version with pattern cutter Bill Tuxhill. He had been inspired by officers in the Eighth Army he met in Burma. They wore rough suede boots with crepe soles that they commissioned at the Old Bazaar in Cairo.

It is believed that the design is based on the Dutch voortrekker boot worn by the South African section of the Eighth Army in the Western Desert. The strong military connection to the boot is the reason for another of its lasting appeals: durability. The crepe sole may be flexible and light, but it is designed for miles of marching on uncertain terrain. The grip is excellent too.

It is highly probable that the initial designs were also based on chukka boots (or turf boots). These calfskin or suede boots for polo were popular after World War II and, although they are tighter at the ankle and have leather soles, the similarities are plain to see.

Surprisingly, Clark’s desert boot first had success in France and Italy, but it wasn’t long before the UK cottoned on. And only a year after the first designs of the two-piece upper, two-hole lace-up design, the boot was showcased at the Chicago Shoe Fair in 1950. (On a side note, does the Shoe Fair still exist? Anyone in Chicago out there?)

In the following years, the desert boot gained popular appeal. Bob Dylan wore them, The Beatles did too (before they rejigged the Chelsea boot and Steve McQueen sported a pair in The Great Escape.

But it wasn’t just music and movie icons that wore them. In 1967, Lord Shackleton, deputy leader of the House of Lords, popularised desert boots in Government after he returned from Aden with a pair he had commissioned.

Sixty years on and the desert boot is as popular as ever. I may not be 30 yet, but because of this article, I will definitely be getting a pair soon. Just two words did it for me: Bob Dylan.

Inspiration from Esquire, 1937

May 10, 2010 | Simon Crompton
Gentlemen, the brown, brook or rainbow

Esquire April 1935, “Brown, by the way, is a new colour for trout-fishing boots. The notion being that they are much less readily discernible to the fish. Other features of the outfit on the left are the tweed hat, stuck with flies, the odd jacket of deep lovat tweed, the grey flannel shirt and trousers and the crochet tie.

The other outfit is as British as the name Connaught, which designates the close-fitting tweed hat with semi-stiffened brim. The English waders come from your toes to high above your waistline - about like a pair of overalls with feet in them. You can’t wade rocky streams, of course, with no more foot-covering than this thin rubberised material, so wool socks go over the feet of the waders and over these go light-weight canvas wading shoes with thick hob-nailed leather soles.

The cashmere muffler obviates the need for the collar and tie when the checked tweed jacket is being worn. Under this, any old dark shirt.”

It may be me, but I can’t take my eyes off the curved pockets on the right and bellows pockets on the left. So many options.

How great things age: Globe-Trotter

April 30, 2010 | Simon Crompton

One of the great attractions of buying classic, handmade items is how they age; true investment pieces that last not just more than one season, but more than one generation. However, few articles are written about aging. Understandably, most are written about the instantly thrilling, box-fresh purchase.

Hopefully this piece will be the first of many about how great things age. It is about my Globe-Trotter luggage.

When I first wrote about buying the luggage two years ago, one reader commented: “Simon, those are beautiful suitcases. But… do you really use them for air travel today? Don’t they get ruined?” I didn’t really know it at the time, but the point is that no, they do not.

There are many advantages to Globe-Trotter luggage. It is very light yet extremely strong (in a famous stunt a cabin case was shown to be able to support the weight of an elephant). It is handmade using the same Victorian machinery as it was 113 years ago. It is easily repaired, very eco-friendly and great value for luxury luggage.

But the best thing about it is how it looks, in particular as it is used. You can get a polycarbonate suitcase that will be tough and lightweight. But it will never look as good as when it was new: it is designed to look shiny and as soon as it scuffs it is degraded. It is unlikely to be something you are proud of; you certainly wouldn’t pass it down to the next generation.

Another reader on that initial post commented “the best thing about Globe-Trotter is, unlike the wretched Samsonites, it doesn’t matter if it starts to looked ‘used.’ Quite the opposite in fact”. Another said “being using one for years. It ages amazingly, with more scratches and baggage stickers gracing its surface, I’m loving it more everyday”.

And here is the evidence, in the photos of my luggage two years later.

In that time it has been checked in about 30 times. It has been toNew York, Hong Kong, Dubai and Buenos Aires. It has often emerged looking a little battered, but with more character as a result. One side is slightly dented and one of the corners has been punctured slightly; but all to good effect.

The only slight disappointment was that, after its fourth outing, the housing of one of the wheels broke away. Apparently this is a relatively rare problem. When cases do get taken in for repair, which happens every five years on average if used heavily, the most common culprits are the locks and the handles. Wheels come third.

It took me a long time to get around to taking the suitcase in for repair – I only managed it last week. And while the repair isn’t inexpensive (this one will be £80), Globe-Trotter does it at cost. It’s done by one man up at Broxbourne, Hertfordshire that does all the company’s carpentry and fixing.

My initial disappointment has been tempered by the experience of using my case since (I taped up the wheel for a while) and by the attentive aftercare service. As long as nothing breaks again any time soon, I’ll be happy.

All similar experiences, photos or war stories are gratefully received. There’s always archive pictures – but those people all had chauffeurs and valets. Much more revealing to see how a suitcase has coped with the thuggish baggage handlers of New Jersey.

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Jason Dike Jason Dike is editor at Selectism. He's... More more
Jason Dike
Nicholas Pettifer Nicholas Pettifer is a journalist working... More more
Nicholas Pettifer
Simon Crompton Simon Crompton is the editor-in-chief of... More more
Simon Crompton
Andy Barnham Andy Barnham is currently looking at life... More more
Andy Barnham
Dave Waters Dave is the associate style editor of Men... More more
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Nathan Brown Nathan Brown is the founder of Lodger Footwear... More more
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Annejkh Carson Annejkh Carson is the designer at Lodger... More more
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Luke Carby Luke Carby is a sneaker geek who is just... More more
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