Simon Crompton is a man that is passionate about style. Potentially indifferent to transitory fashion, but one of those people that digs into the reasons that true style can last forever. And this is the focus for his blog Permanent Style
Simon has just posted a great piece on shoes constructed with the Blake method. I'll repeat the start of the piece here, with a link to Simon's blog to finish it out.
From Permanent Style: In defense of Blake construction
There’s nothing necessarily wrong with Blake-construction shoes (the
method used on all traditional Italian models). They are just more
delicate and will not last as long as Goodyear-welted shoes.
The
same could be said about suits made from super-180s wool or even
super-150s. They are lighter, more delicate and possibly more elegant.
But they will not last as long as an English tweed suit.
I have explained in depth previously what Blake construction is (see posting here).
But in brief, the shoe’s upper is folded over at the edge and sewn
directly onto the sole. With Goodyear-welted shoes the upper is sewn
onto a new ridge of leather, before attaching that to the sole. Most
English shoes and their American heirs use Goodyear welts. They make
the shoe harder wearing and tougher. They also make it easier and
quicker to resole. . . Full Article